{Stus-List} Fwd: Chute Hatch drops/sets?

Robert Howard rphoward at shaw.ca
Fri Mar 2 10:55:39 EST 2007


Hi Greg,
Thought I'd forward my initial response directly too you. Wonder if -- 
like my initial query to  you -- my posts to the list didn't make it 
too your mail box for some reason.
Thank  you kindly for the details. Will definitely be giving this 
method a go early this season.
Cheers,
Robert


> Robert - Ahhh, did you see my step by step post last night?
> Greg

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Robert Howard <rphoward at shaw.ca>
> Date: Thu Mar 1, 2007  9:32:20 PM America/Winnipeg
> To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Chute Hatch drops/sets?
> Reply-To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>
> Greg,
> You rock, mate. Many thanks. (I had deduced your were speaking of fore
> hatch).
> I had digested a couple good books over the winter on racing but non
> that dealt with the nitty gritty of this subject. Improving our chute
> handling is the biggest aspect my boat needs to sort out to improve our
> finishes.
> Now if the lake would get to melting my crew and I could get to
> practicing this!
> Thanks again.
> Robert
>
> On Thursday, March 1, 2007, at 08:11 PM, Gregory Cutter wrote:
>
>> Robert - I did not see your message except in Dave's response to it.
>>
>> First my response to Dave. I strongly disagree, you can do hatch
>> drops/sets
>> on almost any boat (e.g., America's Cup), but it works really well for
>> C&Cs
>> since the sheave and exits on their masts don't let the chute get
>> dropped
>> very easily aft of the spreaders. Beth is no longer on the list, but
>> Jake
>> and many other can confirm this. It's much faster, you don't have crew
>> down
>> below repacking the kite between legs, and you keep the crew weight
>> where
>> it should be. But yes, it is not really needed on long point to point
>> races, just round the buoy, windward-leewards. I've been using them
>> for the
>> last 12 years and it makes a BIG difference in race performance...and
>> it's
>> simply easier.
>>
>> Robert:
>> OK, so Beth had my instruction manual on her web site, but that's
>> gonzo, so
>> I searched my files and found my original message to her (she had a
>> 35-3,
>> and this worked great for her):
>> Hatch sets/douses, combined with windward take downs (and occasional
>> leeward take downs).
>>
>> Essentially, think of your forward hatch as the spin bag; now set out
>> of it
>> and drop into it. Leeward douse. Now that you have that in your mind,
>> you
>> can see doing the conventional leeward douse (under the jib) into the
>> hatch.
>> Windward douse (the best way). OK, so now imagine coming into the mark
>> dead
>> down; jib is already up. Have your mast person hold the guy out from
>> the
>> boat at the shrouds. The foredeck now drops the pole from the guy
>> (topping
>> lift released) and puts the end on the deck, but NOT over the hatch
>> (push
>> it to the side that the jib is on). You can fly the chute free like
>> this
>> for a while. When you're set to drop (ca. 1 BL from the mark), the
>> "pole"...the mast person...pulls the guy in hard and fast so the chute
>> rotates around the forestay; obviously the sheet trimmer releases just
>> before this. As soon as the clew gets around the forestay, the halyard
>> is
>> lowered/dumped (you should now be rounding the mark) and the foredeck
>> and
>> mast person guide it into the open hatch; ideally the mast person is
>> keeping the luff near their hands (i.e., kind of running the tape). 
>> The
>> beauty here is that even if they're slow, the worst that can happen is
>> that
>> the spin drops on the foredeck since the jib keeps it on the boat (why
>> you
>> don't drop until the clew comes around the forestay); they can then
>> gather
>> it and stuff it in the hatch. The other beauty is that the weight is
>> mainly
>> on the highside. OK, so it’s in the hatch, leave the clews and head
>> out,
>> and close the hatch (don't latch); remove/stow the halyard, but LEAVE
>> the
>> sheets alone...they're ready for the next set. Obviously make sure
>> they run
>> the sheets, etc. to make sure nothing got messed up, with the frequent
>> mistake being that when they dropped the pole, the jib sheet slipped
>> down
>> and got trapped with the chute going into the hatch. In this respect,
>> when
>> the foredeck drops the pole, make her push the sheet back up the pole
>> to
>> the mast to keep it out of the way.
>> Now for the planning part, and please save this so I don't have to
>> retype
>> this for the next lister. If you're doing typical port roundings and
>> bear
>> away sets, if you do your windward drop on port approaching the mark,
>> all
>> the sheets, etc are all ready for the next bear-away set...cool, eh?
>> If you
>> decide to do a gybe set or need to set on starboard, it's just a
>> matter of
>> connecting the sheets together on the port side, pulling them around
>> the
>> forestay, and then reconnecting them on the starboard side; again, 
>> just
>> think of the hatch as the bag which is stuck in the middle of the
>> foredeck.
>> Finally, make or have a canvas shop make a mesh bag with battens along
>> the
>> top edge to be your hatch bag. this keeps the chute up off the floor
>> and
>> manageable. Also, you need to inspect the hatch and tape any sharp
>> edges.
>> The next beautiful thing about the hatch drops/sets is NO ONE needs to
>> go
>> below to repack..it's set to go back up. When you set, it's a bit
>> slower as
>> the foredeck has to lead the chute out of the hatch and under the jib,
>> but
>> the gain from not having to repack the chute more than makes up for
>> this,
>> especially on short round the buoys courses. You'll be like a dinghy …
>> or
>> J24!!
>> Cheers, Greg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Greg Cutter
>> Professor
>> Department of Ocean, Earth, and Atmospheric
>> Sciences
>> Old Dominion University
>> 4600 Elkhorn Ave.
>> Norfolk, VA 23529-0276 USA
>> (757) 683-4929 - office
>> (757) 683-5303 - fax
>> Internet: gcutter at odu.edu
>> Web Site:
>> http://sci.odu.edu/oceanography/directory/faculty/cutter/index.shtml
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