{Stus-List} How To Sail a 33-1 Faster?

ckilgour at sympatico.ca ckilgour at sympatico.ca
Thu Nov 15 13:43:24 EST 2007


Tell Ross to get with the program.

Unless it's underwater, helming from the low side is absolutely the way to 


>From: "Brian Callele" <bcallele at capitalenergy.ca>
>Reply-To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>To: "David Ryan" <dryan at buckeye-express.com>,<cnc-list at cnc-list.com>
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} How To Sail a 33-1 Faster?
>Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:06:12 -0600
>I read Dave's points for sailing the 33-1 and I wonder if I can apply
>any of his comments to my 27 Mk III? I think that I often have too much
>weather helm, so his idea of tape marks at 45 and 90 degrees on the
>wheel will be implemented in the spring.
>I am not asking the question as it relates to crew. I know that having a
>couple crew members would help, but I am often sailing solo. If I don't
>sail solo, my sailing is limited to about 4 hours on weekends, and I
>want to sail at least three evenings every week, so I have to do my best
>I have a wheel, and I find sailing from the low side is the only place I
>can adequately see the jib telltales. My sailing mentor, Ross, goes nuts
>when I sit on the low side.
>Now, to put things in perspective, we don't get many racing
>opportunities. But any time there is another boat out on the lake, we
>chase them to see how we are doing ... can we sail faster and point as
>Any advice from other 27 owners? Thanks in advance.
>Brian Callele
>C&C 27 Mark III
>Regina Beach Yacht Club
>-----Original Message-----
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com
>[mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Ryan
>Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 9:27 AM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} How To Sail a 33-1 Faster?
>I've got a '75 33-1 that I've raced around for a while.
>First, its not a great single-handed boat! This baby needs a full crew,
>as many as you can scrape up.
>To get her going, the helm needs to be as straight as possible. This is
>That means that you need a good main trimmer. He should watch the wheel
>(you've put tape marks port/stbd at 0, 45, 90 degrees to indicate the
>of weather helm), and drop the  traveler whenever you get one tape mark
>weather helm. You  don't need to ease the sheet in most wind conditions;
>the traveler, with the trimmer sitting on the combing with the traveler
>coming up  between his/her legs.  Beware! The tall skinny main is mostly
>trim-tab for the jib, and a speed brake. Do Not  Overtrim it.
>Also, this  boat likes to go upwind. You need good tacks to do that,
>requires a tailer AND a grinder. Coming out of the tack, keep the nose
>at least 5 degrees and  get up to speed. Then, the grinder slowly brings
>genny  in as you get into pointing mode. The tailer skirts the jib over
>lifeline as he makes his way to the rail.  You won't be able to point as
>high as  possible until you are up to speed. Don't  pinch!
>Are you familiar with 'walking to weather'? When pointing, you can pinch
>bit, then  come back down when the speed bleeds off. You have
>moved the boat 4'-5' to weather. Pays off over a couple of miles.
>I've also found that I do pretty well in extra-light (<3kn) and  really
>start to go when it is over 9 knots. 13 seems to be excellent (at least
>way my wind thing is calibrated).
>Don't drive from the high side, or directly behind the wheel.  You
>also sit in little nook in the low-side aft corner, one hand on the
>and only look at the jib tell-tales.  Your jib trimmers will get on the
>rail after the jib is in, and let you know where you are going and where
>mark is. Resist the urge to grind in the sail yourself;  call the
>trimmer to
>do it! (You can ease the jib a little without screwing up the driving).
>everybody  except you out of the cockpit asap after a tack. They live
>the high side rail.
>Downwind without a kite is horrible. Use the pole as soon as possible to
>keep the jib inflated. This means you will be putting the pole on the
>side as the boom. Or, you can try to heat it up  going downwind with a
>Now the crew can distribute their weight amidships to keep the boat
>but they should not drag down the stern by hanging out in the cockpit.
>So, to kick some butt in jib/main you will need:
>Driver, main trimmer, jib tailer, jib grinder. (4)
>You can get away with the driver  tailing and releasing the jib in a
>and going with 3  crew.  Less than that, and you have handicapped
>What did I forget guys? What did I get   wrong?
>My .0175 us
>Dave Ryan
>C&C 33-1
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bob Moriarty" <bobmor99 at gmail.com>
>To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list at cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 9:36 PM
>Subject: {Stus-List} How To Sail a 33-1 Faster?
> > Once again, I come with questions, not answers.
> >
> > The restoration of Ox, my 1976 C&C-33, is proceediing nicely.
> >
> > I tangle regularly with my arch-nemesis Dasher, a 1967 Islander 37, on
> > the St Johns River in North Florida.
> > Neither of us fly a spinnaker and our PHRF ratings (in New England and
> > San Fran) are almost equal.
> >
> > Dasher's skipper is a wily river-rat, well experienced with the ins
> > and outs of the St Johns' tidal currents as well as the occasional
> > afternoon sea breezes.  I just try to stay close and cover when I'm
> > ahead. Dasher flies a new 135 headsail on a roller furler and an old,
> > full-battened main. Ox has a fairly new yankee-cut 147 genoa and a new
> > main without full battens. The most recent of the few times I've
> > beaten Dasher was an upwind race in light air. I keep Ox pretty light,
> > e.g. empty water tank. I was killed the other day going upwind
> > (singlehanded) in ~15 knots.
> >
> > I appreciate in advance any lessons learned racing a C&C-33-1 (or
> >
> > Bob
> > Ox 33-1
> >
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