{Stus-List} Tiller bushing and Rerig for C&C 33 MK1 - DiamondStays

rspence7 rspence7 at cox.net
Sun Feb 10 20:43:12 EST 2008


"      Do you or does anyone know the purpose behind those diamonds?  I've not seen them before on a single spreader rig.  Do I need to keep them on re-rig?"""""

Yes, and yes!!

All us original 33-1 owners got a package in the mail in early 1976, which included the diamond eqiupment and the instructions on how to install them, including the way to grind away the aluminum castings at the spreader ends to accept the diamond rig.

Must have been that C&C realized that the mast height relative to the loads and spreader location was causing a very bendy stick with the new teardrop section.  They're fix was the diamond , which would then support the bendy stick between 1/2 the deck, and 1/2 between  the cap.

Best rig tune is to rig the stick without any pressure on the diamond, and once you're happy with the mast column in light to moderate breezes, hand tighten the barrel turnbuckles on the diamond firm hand tight.  That will eliminate te squirrley mast bends that you see sighting up the stick.

Good luck,
Roger

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Winter 
  To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:38 PM
  Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Tiller bushing and Rerig for C&C 33 MK1 - DiamondStays


  YES!  My boat does have the diamond stays.  A rigger that I had estimating the re-rig was dumbfounded by them.  The previous owner (who was not the original owner) couldn't explain them.  Do you or does anyone know the purpose behind those diamonds?  I've not seen them before on a single spreader rig.  Do I need to keep them on re-rig?

  Which of your rods broke, where, and did it cause an issue?

  The C&C 33 Tiller is pretty simple.  Rudder stock comes up through the sole (probably same as the wheel steered boats), has a casting attached the holds the tiller above the sole, and there is a 7/16hole drilled through the rudder stock for passing a bolt that also goes through brackets mounted to the tiller itself.  Is simple, allows a cheaper autopilot solution, but is really a pig under power when the propwash causes a lot of torque.

  Mike

  >>Mike;
  I would love to see a photo of a tiller 33-1. I've got a wheel version, and there are two other wheel versions of the same vintage in my neck of the woods. Interestingly, all the wheels are in slightly different positions. Mine is the farthest aft, and i have had to remove the back bench seat to I can fit behind there. (However I mostly sit in the  corners).

  I have the rudder stub sticking up out of the  cockpit sole, with a casting on it that fits the  emergence tiller. That casting is just bolted to the rudder stock via two threaded bolts on the forward face of the rudder post.  It seems that the weight of the rudder itself is supported by that casting, which sits on two delrin washers, then a circular metal plate, then the deck.

  I've replaced virtually all of the running rigging, but not the navtec rods (except one  that broke). Does your mast have the 'diamond' stays?

  Dave Ryan
  C&C 33-1
  1975
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Mike Winter 
    To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
    Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:56 AM
    Subject: {Stus-List} Tiller bushing and Rerig for C&C 33 MK1


    Hey folks,
    Recently acquired a 75 C&C 33 Mk 1.  It is a tiller boat.  After experiencing a lot of slop in the tiller, I noted that the brackets for the tiller are sized for a 3/8 bolt, and the hole in the rudder stock is closer to 7/16.  I assume there is supposed to be a bushing in the rudder stock.  I'm having one made now, but am curious if there are any stock bushings out there that people have sourced.



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