{Stus-List} keel bolt plates

[dwight veinot]

I replaced those plates on my 35 MKII with one half inch thick 316 stainless
steel plates and I just used polyurethane bedding compound (Sikaflex) and
didn't worry that the surfaces in the bilge were a little uneven. They
worked that way for 30 + years.  I replaced all the plates on the keel bolts
aft of the mast step (4) and I also lifted the mast step and repaired
corrosion pits in the aluminium with reinforced epoxy, painted it black and
rebedded the bolts under it and used new stainless steel washers below the
nuts on the keel bolts.  There was a crack in the fiberglass on the forward
edge of the bilge just below the mast step that allowed water from the bilge
to get in below the step so I chiseled the crack out and filled with epoxy.
The layer of glass there is very thin on the 35 MKII and it is not
structural but it should be water tight or else water will seep into the
volume under the mast step and possibly rot the wood. 

 

Dwight Veinot

1974 C&C 35, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _____  

From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Lynne Therrien
Sent: May 7, 2008 10:13 PM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} keel bolt plates

 

I'm in the process of replacing the steel backing plates on my 4 keel bolts.
I will be installing stainless plates but I was wondering if I should use
5200 or just mix some thick epoxy as a way to even out the surface.

 

I thought of just placing the plates over the bolts on either substance,
let it sit till it sets and then torquing to 350 ft/lbs.

 

Thoughts..ideas...how is 5200 under that much compression?

 

Muchos gracias!

 

Phil & Lynne

Drakkar C&C 35 MK11

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