{Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I

Bill Coleman coltrek at verizon.net
Mon Jun 1 17:36:19 EDT 2009


Yes, Mine is solid 1.63 at the top, and then goes up to 2 5/16 a few inches
below that, then goes to 2.82. (pipe)
 
I think if you look at where it comes out of the hull, even at the quadrant,
I think, it will be around either 1.87 or 2.31, and hollow.
I have built and/or remodeled a few of these many years ago, and all of them
were pipe.
 
For instance, I made a high aspect replacement rudder (the SS, not the
fiberglass)  for a C&C30 in 1981 and it was 1 1/2" (1.90" OD) Schedule 160. 
So, I guess not Scd 80, but scd 160 (just looked it up in my archives) 
 
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39

-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 4:23 PM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I


The OD of the 35-1 rudder shaft at the top rudder bearing is 1.50 inches.
It looks to be solid stainless rod .  I measured Touche's with a caliper to
fabricate a new upper rudder bearing.  I'm pretty sure that's the OD of the
entire shaft.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



  _____  

From: Bill Coleman <coltrek at verizon.net>
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 2:44:49 PM
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I

C&C used Schedule 80 pipe as did most other builders for rudder shafts. They
welded a solid bar in the top section (for the threads and tiller-post
square). So, the diameters would likely be up to 1/16" under the nominal
pipe sizes -

Pipe size
1 1/2"      = 1.900"
2"          = 2.375"
2 1/2"      = 2.875"

My shaft is around 2.82, or 2 1/2" pipe - They turn them down a little to
take the bark off.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I


Hi Joe,

I did it on the hard, but without "outside or going outside" help. The 
bottle jack is used to unload the collar just a very wee bit... less than 
1/16". I also had wooden block & wedges in case I needed to unload jack and 
turn shaft, but didn't need then.
Since you have 40% wastage... it won't take much to hacksaw the rest of it.

The McMaster link was to show you what they are and tell the counter dude. 
I used my local industrial bearing supply house, B.C. Bearing, wonderful 
company (worldwide now, doancha know).

You need the exact size, the collar realize on friction to do the job so it 
needs maximum contact surface. Any smaller size will just give you two 
contact points.
Use a caliper and write down the size in thousands of an inch... if you're 
talking to someone, it's the language they speak:
If you don't have/can't borrow a caliper then try a C-clamp across the 
shaft and then measure the gap of the C-clamp. It will be an odd size, 
ending as a "/32" or "/16" of an inch (I'll measure my shaft when I'm at 
the boat again.)

        Cheers, Russ
        35 mk-1



At 05:26 AM 6/1/2009, you wrote:
>Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>        boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C9E2B4.2E08B085"
>
>So you did this in the water using a jack under the quadrant? Does 
>McMaster have these in the right size or was this just to show what 
>they are? Thanks!
>
>Joe Della Barba
>Coquina


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