{Stus-List} Window Re-bed how-to

Brent Driedger brentmd at highspeedcrow.ca
Tue Jun 2 00:19:56 EDT 2009

Hi and thanks for the reply. I wish I had it a few days ago. I did the  
job sort of as described using Pluexus 40 minute open time type with  
their air powered gun. It made the job a little less of a fire drill  
and It worked out ok. After reading your reply what I did wrong is I  
did not repair gelcoat that had chipped off hoping adhesive would  
cover that up and 2nd I didn't put enough goo on the starboard side  
(my 1st window)to have much squeeze out. As a result when a fat line  
squall went over my house today providing perfect test conditions I  
found a very small leak still on the starboard window bottom aft. My  
thought is like you to mask off the window and squirt some 4200 into  
the void then apply a bead around the inside glass too. I guess I will  
have to make sure this seal is well maintained so freezing water or  
damp core behind the window doesn't pop it out. Oh well, live and  
learn. At least the product is local and if it does loosen up Ill try  
again and this time I'll replace the glass with new, something that  
was outside my exponentially expanding repair budget this time around.
My supplier was excellent and knowledgeable with the product. They  
gave me the gun loan for free and didn't charge me the $55 extra for  
the tube of Plexus which broke open under the guns air pressure.

Hey Stu, perhaps this would be a good instruction list for the  

s/v (dry inside now) Wild Rover

On 1-Jun-09, at 8:52 PM, Harry Hepburn wrote:

> Brent:
> I replaced a couple windows in 2006 and replaced both starboard  
> windows this
> year (a couple weeks ago).  The process is complicated and I have  
> recently
> learned that I made a couple mistakes in 2006 which I did not  
> realize until
> after I installed the starboard windows which is a real pain in the  
> butt.
> Typically my boat is shrinkwrapped for the winter, but this year it  
> was
> covered part of the winter and left un-covered for part of the  
> winter.  As a
> result water seemed to find it's way into a couple areas and caused  
> a little
> trouble.  No major damage, but a couple additional repairs required.
> During the process of installation I applied enough Plexus to cover  
> and
> create a watertight seal, but not enough to seaap out of all edges.   
> As a
> result there was an area around the perimeter of the window that  
> water could
> get into and it did.  During the heavy rains that we had in the last  
> couple
> weeks I found that water was getting in thru a couple areas in both   
> port
> windows.  After trouble shooting, It appears that water got in that  
> area
> behind the window and frose.  Luckily, It does not look like any major
> damage was csued from this aside from a few small hairline cracks.   
> I think
> that generally I have done a good job replacing the windows (better  
> this
> year then previously), aside form not getting enough coverage.
> Process in a nutshell:
> 1.  Remove the old windows.  If some areas are loose use that area  
> as the
> starting place and take a putty knife along the window entally  
> moving along
> the perimeter until the entire window releases.
> 2.  Order new windows.  Ship or take your windows into a plastic  
> shop and
> have then cut new windows and ease the edges to match exiting (use  
> the old
> windows for templating).  I used Select Plastics in CT for my new  
> windows.
> They were quick, proffesional and very helpful. The new windows were  
> shipped
> back to me very quickly.
> 3.  Choose adhesive.  There are many different thoughts regarding  
> this.
> South Shore Yachts recomends Plexus.  I used Plexus MA300.  Ordered  
> tubes
> from a local company along with tips and applicator (gun).  Tubes  
> are around
> $12 each and you'll need a couple per window.
> 4.  Remove old adhesive from boat.  Inevitably when the window pops  
> out you
> are left with a hard plstic resin type finish approximately 1/32" to  
> 1/16"
> thick.  Don't try and chissel it off, you will only chip your  
> gelcoat.  This
> year I focused on sanding it off.  I used my orbital sander with 60  
> grit
> paper to remove 85%, then purchased a mouse sander by black and  
> decker with
> 80 grit sandpaper for the remainder (tight corners).  I highly  
> recommend a
> mouse sander, best $20 spent.  After I finished removing all the  
> adheasive I
> used 220 grit sandpaper to touch up the gelcoat that will not be  
> covered.
> 5.  Patch any gelcoat that was damaged.  And, fix any hairlkine  
> cracks that
> will not be covered by adhesive.
> 6.  Install new windows.  This job can be done with 2 people and  
> does not
> require constructing framework to hold the windows in place.  if you  
> use the
> Plexus MA300 it will set up in under 10 minutes.
>  A.  Position window, tape off around it, remove protective paper  
> from area
> to receive adhesive and sand with 80 grit.
>  B.  Be sure and tape all areas around window opening to protect form
> excess adhesive.
>  C.  I followed some older email descriptions and applied two beads of
> adhesive, one large bead (1/4") on the inside edge and a smaller  
> bead (1/8")
> on the outside edge.  I also used tiny glass beads which I sprinkled  
> into
> adhesive before setting the window (a great suggestion from another  
> owner),
> this prevented the adhesive from gushing out everywhere.  My big
> mistake.....  Not applying enough adhesive to allow it to gush out a  
> little.
> I recommend not conserving the adhesive and make sure to put enough  
> on so
> that the perimeter has a thick even coating.  I would also recommend  
> that
> the adhesive is applied close to the outside edge to create a good  
> seal
> aorund the edge of the window.
>  D.  After adhesive is applied, set the windows in place, apply  
> pressure
> and hold still for several minutes (have two peoiple on hand to  
> spread the
> pressure evenly.
>  E.  Next clean all excess adhesive from around the windows, I used a
> utility knife and an Xacto blade to loosen it, then removed all the  
> excess.
> As the adhesive starts to set up it will become extremely hard, so  
> make sure
> you remove anything that you don't want to see when complete....  Then
> remove all tape and eventually the protective coating on the acrylic.
> Caution...  Do NOT leave any gaps uncovered.  If water can get  
> behind any
> part of the window it can freeze and crack the gelcoat and/or the  
> window and
> lead to additional problems.  I spent last Saturday taping around  
> all the
> windows and providing a very thin bead of sealant to protect the  
> areas that
> did not get adequete coverage from the adhesive.  Time will tell if  
> this
> solves my problems.  I would love to hear from other owners that may  
> have
> ran into similar problems and understand how they have resolved this  
> issue.
> Hope this helps you and others in the future.
> Harry
> Harry Hepburn
> CCure 1988 C&C 30 MKII
> hhepburn at maine.rr.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com 
> ]
> On Behalf Of Brent Driedger
> Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 7:37 PM
> To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
> Subject: {Stus-List} Window Re-bed how-to
> I have the goo and the gun, now I needs the knowledge. What is the  
> best link
> to thorough how-to info on installing cabin windows with Plexus.  
> Weather
> permitting I will do this work on Saturday.
> Thanks
> Brent Driedger
> s/v Wild Rover
> c&c 27 mkV
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