{Stus-List} Window Re-bed how-to

Drew & Mary Adair adair at verizon.net
Tue Jun 2 07:05:06 EDT 2009


Hi Harry -

You mention sprinkling tiny glass beads into the adhesive.  What type of
beads are you talking about, and where can they be purchased?  Any input
would be appreciated.

- Drew Adair
C&C 32
Aurora

-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com
[mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry Hepburn
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 9:52 PM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Window Re-bed how-to

Brent:

I replaced a couple windows in 2006 and replaced both starboard windows
this
year (a couple weeks ago).  The process is complicated and I have
recently
learned that I made a couple mistakes in 2006 which I did not realize
until
after I installed the starboard windows which is a real pain in the
butt.

Typically my boat is shrinkwrapped for the winter, but this year it was
covered part of the winter and left un-covered for part of the winter.
As a
result water seemed to find it's way into a couple areas and caused a
little
trouble.  No major damage, but a couple additional repairs required.

During the process of installation I applied enough Plexus to cover and
create a watertight seal, but not enough to seaap out of all edges.  As
a
result there was an area around the perimeter of the window that water
could
get into and it did.  During the heavy rains that we had in the last
couple
weeks I found that water was getting in thru a couple areas in both
port
windows.  After trouble shooting, It appears that water got in that area
behind the window and frose.  Luckily, It does not look like any major
damage was csued from this aside from a few small hairline cracks.  I
think
that generally I have done a good job replacing the windows (better this
year then previously), aside form not getting enough coverage.

Process in a nutshell:
1.  Remove the old windows.  If some areas are loose use that area as
the
starting place and take a putty knife along the window entally moving
along
the perimeter until the entire window releases.

2.  Order new windows.  Ship or take your windows into a plastic shop
and
have then cut new windows and ease the edges to match exiting (use the
old
windows for templating).  I used Select Plastics in CT for my new
windows.
They were quick, proffesional and very helpful. The new windows were
shipped
back to me very quickly.

3.  Choose adhesive.  There are many different thoughts regarding this.
South Shore Yachts recomends Plexus.  I used Plexus MA300.  Ordered
tubes
from a local company along with tips and applicator (gun).  Tubes are
around
$12 each and you'll need a couple per window.

4.  Remove old adhesive from boat.  Inevitably when the window pops out
you
are left with a hard plstic resin type finish approximately 1/32" to
1/16"
thick.  Don't try and chissel it off, you will only chip your gelcoat.
This
year I focused on sanding it off.  I used my orbital sander with 60 grit
paper to remove 85%, then purchased a mouse sander by black and decker
with
80 grit sandpaper for the remainder (tight corners).  I highly recommend
a
mouse sander, best $20 spent.  After I finished removing all the
adheasive I
used 220 grit sandpaper to touch up the gelcoat that will not be
covered.

5.  Patch any gelcoat that was damaged.  And, fix any hairlkine cracks
that
will not be covered by adhesive.

6.  Install new windows.  This job can be done with 2 people and does
not
require constructing framework to hold the windows in place.  if you use
the
Plexus MA300 it will set up in under 10 minutes.  
  A.  Position window, tape off around it, remove protective paper from
area
to receive adhesive and sand with 80 grit. 
  B.  Be sure and tape all areas around window opening to protect form
excess adhesive.  
  C.  I followed some older email descriptions and applied two beads of
adhesive, one large bead (1/4") on the inside edge and a smaller bead
(1/8")
on the outside edge.  I also used tiny glass beads which I sprinkled
into
adhesive before setting the window (a great suggestion from another
owner),
this prevented the adhesive from gushing out everywhere.  My big
mistake.....  Not applying enough adhesive to allow it to gush out a
little.
I recommend not conserving the adhesive and make sure to put enough on
so
that the perimeter has a thick even coating.  I would also recommend
that
the adhesive is applied close to the outside edge to create a good seal
aorund the edge of the window.
  D.  After adhesive is applied, set the windows in place, apply
pressure
and hold still for several minutes (have two peoiple on hand to spread
the
pressure evenly.
  E.  Next clean all excess adhesive from around the windows, I used a
utility knife and an Xacto blade to loosen it, then removed all the
excess.
As the adhesive starts to set up it will become extremely hard, so make
sure
you remove anything that you don't want to see when complete....  Then
remove all tape and eventually the protective coating on the acrylic.

Caution...  Do NOT leave any gaps uncovered.  If water can get behind
any
part of the window it can freeze and crack the gelcoat and/or the window
and
lead to additional problems.  I spent last Saturday taping around all
the
windows and providing a very thin bead of sealant to protect the areas
that
did not get adequete coverage from the adhesive.  Time will tell if this
solves my problems.  I would love to hear from other owners that may
have
ran into similar problems and understand how they have resolved this
issue.

Hope this helps you and others in the future.

Harry


Harry Hepburn   
CCure 1988 C&C 30 MKII
hhepburn at maine.rr.com
 






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