{Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I

Russ & Melody russmel at telus.net
Wed Jun 3 12:00:55 EDT 2009


It can be that easy... with a couple more details.

    * I used the bottle jack (instead of wedges) to prop the quadrant for 
ease of adjustment. Use a bridge (wooden 1X4) across the quadrant arms to 
spread the load.
    * Tie off the wheel so it can't turn and spit the jack out.
    * Only enough lift to have the rudder touch the hull.
    * Install collar with at least 1/8" clearance.
    * Lower & raise (cycle) the rudder up and down a few times, unload jack 
and check operation lock-to-lock.
    * Beer. (Follow shampoo instructions: repeat as necessary :)
There should be a plastic bearing that looks like a big washer between the 
collar and the top of the rudder log. If it's not there use lots o' grease 
and plan a replacement on the next haulout.

Ya hafta love the engineering at old C&C. Look at the rudder shaft for an 
example: 1 1/2" at the top bearing and quadrant so things aren't 
ridiculously oversized, upper portion smaller diameter (clearance) than 
lower portion for ease of loading into shaft log and a big shaft where it 
matters.

         Cheers, Russ
         35 mk-1


At 08:18 AM 6/3/2009, you wrote:
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>
>I am getting a little happier now.
>This could be as easy as propping the quadrant up with a jack, getting the 
>old one off, and bolting the new one on J
>
>Joe Della Barba
>Coquina
>
>THANKS all for the info !
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] 
>On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
>Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:06 AM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I
>
>Hi Joe,
>
>For some reason the McMaster-Carr link only goes to the general collar 
>section. I can't get the specific collar to show as a link.
>But I you've got the right area.
>1 7/8" split collar 316 S/S part number: 9633T35 $95.20  or 303 S/S part 
>6436K102 $55.92
>
>The price really went up but I got mine before the last run-up of metal 
>prices.
>
>         Cheers, Russ
>         35 mk-1
>
>At 06:40 AM 6/3/2009, you wrote:
>
>Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
>Content-Type: multipart/related; type="multipart/alternative";
>         boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C9E450.EA36B356"
>
><http://www.mcmaster.com/#clamp-on-collars/=25m5kx>http://www.mcmaster.com/#clamp-on-collars/=25m5kx
>
>Would this one work?
>
>Joe Della Barba
>Coquina
>
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com 
>[<mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com>mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] 
>On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
>Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:50 PM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I
>
>Hi Joe,
>
>I just measured Sweet's rudder shaft. It is bar stock, not mechanical 
>tubing or pipe stock & weldments as Bill's rudder shaft is built. Likely 
>due to the early years' build process.
>
>Shaft diameter, starting at the top:
>    * 1.500" at the top bearing
>    * 1.750" down to the above the quadrant
>    * 1.500" at the quadrant
>    * 1.875" below the quadrant (split collar landing)
>         Cheers, Russ
>
>
>At 02:36 PM 6/1/2009, you wrote:
>
>Yes, Mine is solid 1.63 at the top, and then goes up to 2 5/16 a few 
>inches below that, then goes to 2.82. (pipe)
>
>I think if you look at where it comes out of the hull, even at the 
>quadrant, I think, it will be around either 1.87 or 2.31, and hollow.
>I have built and/or remodeled a few of these many years ago, and all of 
>them were pipe.
>
>For instance, I made a high aspect replacement rudder (the SS, not the 
>fiberglass)  for a C&C30 in 1981 and it was 1 1/2" (1.90" OD) Schedule 160.
>So, I guess not Scd 80, but scd 160 (just looked it up in my archives)
>
>
>Bill Coleman
>C&C 39
>46a8be.jpg
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com 
>[<mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com>mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] 
>On Behalf Of Dennis C.
>Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 4:23 PM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I
>The OD of the 35-1 rudder shaft at the top rudder bearing is 1.50 
>inches.  It looks to be solid stainless rod .  I measured Touche's with a 
>caliper to fabricate a new upper rudder bearing.  I'm pretty sure that's 
>the OD of the entire shaft.
>
>Dennis C.
>Touche' 35-1 #83
>Mandeville, LA
>
>From: Bill Coleman <coltrek at verizon.net>
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 2:44:49 PM
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I
>C&C used Schedule 80 pipe as did most other builders for rudder shafts. They
>welded a solid bar in the top section (for the threads and tiller-post
>square). So, the diameters would likely be up to 1/16" under the nominal
>pipe sizes -
>Pipe size
>1 1/2"      = 1.900"
>2"          = 2.375"
>2 1/2"      = 2.875"
>My shaft is around 2.82, or 2 1/2" pipe - They turn them down a little to
>take the bark off.
>Bill Coleman
>C&C 39
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: <mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com>cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com 
>[mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
>On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
>Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 1:22 PM
>To: <mailto:cnc-list at cnc-list.com>cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} rudder help 35 MK I
>
>Hi Joe,
>I did it on the hard, but without "outside or going outside" help. The
>bottle jack is used to unload the collar just a very wee bit... less than
>1/16". I also had wooden block & wedges in case I needed to unload jack and
>turn shaft, but didn't need then.
>Since you have 40% wastage... it won't take much to hacksaw the rest of it.
>The McMaster link was to show you what they are and tell the counter dude.
>I used my local industrial bearing supply house, B.C. Bearing, wonderful
>company (worldwide now, doancha know).
>You need the exact size, the collar realize on friction to do the job so it
>needs maximum contact surface. Any smaller size will just give you two
>contact points.
>Use a caliper and write down the size in thousands of an inch... if you're
>talking to someone, it's the language they speak:
>If you don't have/can't borrow a caliper then try a C-clamp across the
>shaft and then measure the gap of the C-clamp. It will be an odd size,
>ending as a "/32" or "/16" of an inch (I'll measure my shaft when I'm at
>the boat again.)
>         Cheers, Russ
>         35 mk-1
>
>
>At 05:26 AM 6/1/2009, you wrote:
> >Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
> >Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> >        boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C9E2B4.2E08B085"
> >
> >So you did this in the water using a jack under the quadrant? Does
> >McMaster have these in the right size or was this just to show what
> >they are? Thanks!
> >
> >Joe Della Barba
> >Coquina
>
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