{Stus-List} trimming...

dwight veinot dwightveinot at hfx.eastlink.ca
Tue Jun 9 19:42:55 EDT 2009


Gavin

Were the panels for the sail professionally cut and then you sewed them
together or did you also cut the sail?  Sewing a sail well is one thing, but
the cut is what makes it trim right.

If you don't have inboard tracks for a 110% jib it may not matter that much
on a 30MKI but you could find what you think is your best spot on the toe
rail and try barber hauling to move the clew of the sail closer to center
line to see what effect that has on leech flutter, which will tell you if
inboard tracks are worth the effort to install.   Your boat will be better
with inboard lead positions (inboard tracks do that) for 130 to 150% genoas
but I think a good No.3 or 110% headsail should trim fine from blocks on the
toe rail but you can find out before recutting the sail.

Dwight Veinot
1974 C&C 35, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Gavin Peters
Sent: June 9, 2009 11:39 AM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: {Stus-List} trimming...

Anyone have any ideas on trim?  All ideas welcome, I'm trying to drive
my 30 Mk1 a bit faster upwind with a new sail.

I have a new 110% I sewed over the winter.  It's cut relatively low,
barely clearing the lifelines.  6.5oz dacron, with a sunbrella sun
cover.  I put my jib sheet through snatch blocks on the toerail; no
genoa track yet.

When I'm going upwind with it, I get a lot of leech flutter.  If I
move the block forward, I can stop the flutter, but now I can't put
much tension on the foot, and I can't point as high.  If I try to use
the leechline, I have to put a lot of force into it.

I've tried putting the block 7 holes forward of the cockpit bulkhead
stancheon, and that's I think too far aft; but 4 holes in front of
that is definitely too far forward...

Ideas?  

Plan B is: put a garhauer genoa track on this winter.

- Gavin

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