{Stus-List} trimming...Barber Hauoling scheme.

Ron Casciato impromtu at verizon.net
Wed Jun 10 11:08:59 EDT 2009


I don't know if this might be an alternative, but if you can find the deck
layout for a new C&C 99..........one was at the Newport Boat Show a year
ago.  They have an adjustable barber hauler rigged from the cabin roof using
a pad eye and a 4 part vang type assembly with a small block riding on the
jib sheet.

It allows for the jib position to float but controlled by the vang system
led back to the cockpit.  I may have pictures of it somewhere, but you might
get them from C&C or a '99 brochure?

It looked clean and efficient and didn't require mounting an inside
track.....

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
C&C 38MKIIC..'77

-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} trimming...

I have been sailing my 30-1 for 15 years now, and installed inboard tracks 
about 14 years ago. I have 155, 140 and 110 sails and run them all to the 
inboard tracks. The 110's clew just hits the shrouds when sheeted. Yes, the 
30-1 is stiff and will carry the 155 to 20+ apparent, which is what we do - 
over that and you are rail in the water which is not as fast as the number 
2. I only use the 3 for really heavy stuff (25 and above true). Sunday, we 
went out in about 10-11 true and had a great cruise with the 3 up, sheeted 
on the tracks, no luff flutter, and no great heel, as it would have spilled 
the wine.

If you are interested in pointing ability, I agree with Dwight that you need

to barber-haul the sail inboard - but cannot think of what to hook it to. If

the clew is forward or even with the shrouds, you may hook a barber-hauler 
to the shrouds.... With a low-cut jib, you cannot use the cabin-top winch or

cleats, so are stuck with sheeting to the toe rail. You will get about 13-14

or more degrees of lead in angle with the blocks on the rail and can get 
about 11 with tracks, thus greater pointing ability. I have thought about 
mounting cabin-top tracks and sheeting the #3 inside the shrouds, but use 
the #3 so seldom (light-air Chesapeake) that I don't think it is worth the 
trouble. I would also probably need a flatter #3.

This is not answering your original question, which is how to get rid of the

leech flutter. The only way is to tighten the leech cord and if that gives 
you too much leech curl, then you need to alter the sail.

Gary Nylander
30-1 #593
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dwight veinot" <dwightveinot at hfx.eastlink.ca>
To: <cnc-list at cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} trimming...


> You might be right. As I suggested barber hauling should provide some
> indication before installing the inboard tracks.
>
> My experience with a 30 MKI is that they are very stiff boats and can 
> carry
> a 150 up into the 20's apparent wind speed.  Unless the 110 is your 
> primary
> use headsail then it would generally only see use above about 25 apparent
> and since the 30 MKI is not a beamy boat for a 30 footer (10 ft) sheeting 
> on
> the toe rail should be fine.  Anyway he can try barber hauling to see what
> effect inboard sheeting might have.
>
> Dwight Veinot
> 1974 C&C 35, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com]
> On Behalf Of John and Sue Fletcher
> Sent: June 9, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: {Stus-List} trimming...
>
> I would think a 110 sail should really be sheeted inboard of the toe rail 
> to
>
> get a better idea of its performance.  especially if the leach flutter is
> worse when trying to point.
>
>
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