{Stus-List} Furling Trouble

cscheaffer at comcast.net cscheaffer at comcast.net
Wed Jul 7 10:42:45 EDT 2010



Same here.  Our Harken furler came with a (black w red fleck) furling line that works great.  It is probably 5/16" braided.  We furl without the winch and many times, I do it myself by letting out the sheet as I take in the furling line.  The first turn needs some persuasion, then it gets easier.  It gets super easier when you get it half way.  I positioned a Harken 150 cam cleat so the line can be led to a selftailing winch in case we get a reefing genoa, or need that extra power.  Some of the crew have used the winch, but as they build confidence in the system, I expect they will do the same way I do, which allows you to feel when the sheet is caught under someone's butt.  

Will someone release that cheekblock? 



Chuck 

Resolute 

C&C 34R 






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dwight veinot" <dwightveinot at hfx.eastlink.ca> 
To: billbina at sbcglobal.net, cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 7:46:51 AM 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Furling Trouble 




I have 5/16 inch braid as my furling line on my Harken system.  As long as the genoa sheets are released there is no problem furling by hand ( no winch assist needed) under all conditions, a little tougher when the wind is fresh, like above 15 kts but still quite manageable.  I have marked the both sides of foot of my 130% furling headsail using black sail tape at measured locations that correspond to 120, 110 and 100 % LP as easily seen reference points.  I carry little tension on the halyard but lucky enough for me the sail seems to like it that way and it trims well and is quite fast.  Just enough halyard tension with about 1000 pounds backstay tension so that the luff is not stretched real tight…actually I winch the halyard tight and then back off to ease the luff tension to where I want it.  This seems to work well on my boat.  I fasten the furling line tight on a bull horn type clamp on the cockpit coming where I can easily reach it from behind the wheel and with the sail fully out I have about 3-4 feet excess furling line and when the sail is furled there is still 1-2 turns of line left on the drum. 




Dwight Veinot 

1974 C&C 35, Alianna 

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 






From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
Sent: July 5, 2010 7:56 PM 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Furling Trouble 



Thanks, Sam. I thought about going that route, but I have found that this method works better for me. I use the same ascenders for other lines - even larger diameter ones when I need a stronger pulling force. I also have a truly "progressive" reefable 155% Genoa that additionally works very well at 100% and 130%. Rather than tie off the furling line to a cleat at each setting, I simply let the ascender clamp and hold the line at the last block exactly where I want it to stay. Trying to tie off  to a cleat in a strong breeze while single handing is not very precise. This makes it trivial to have the sail exactly where I want it instead of close to where I want it. I guess you really would have to try it to understand what a huge benefit it gives. I'd say it effectively more than doubles my strength for pulling on lines. Maybe a lot more. I can pull much harder with one hand and the ascender than I can with both hands and no ascender - with or without gloves. 

Bill Bina 


On 7/5/2010 5:43 PM, Sam Salter wrote: 

Bill, 

If the furler line is hard to grip, buy a line with a dia that is comfortable. 
When the sail is out, mark where the line exits the drum and decore all the line on the drum. 
The line that goes to the cockpit will be good on the hands, the line in the drum will be half the bulk - so the drum won't clog up - but still plenty strong enough for a roller furler. 

Steve, 

If you haven't got a "Profurl" furler, you really need one of these to stop the jib halyard wrapping around the forestay: 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=13541&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10102&subdeptNum=10223&classNum=10226 

sam:-) 
C&C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


Bill Bina wrote: 

My learning curve for furlers included finding out that if you raised the jib and put some tension on the halyard, and then additionally tightened the backstay, you would have so much tension that the furler would feel like the bearings were frozen. Now I raise the sail but don't "crank" it bone tight if the backstay isn't tensioned. If I want the genoa tight I tension the backstay FIRST and then crank the halyard. When it's time to furl, I release the backstay, and it rolls up like butter. Whatever you do NEVER use a winch on your roller furler. You will destroy either the furler or the sail. If you feel you need a winch STOP, because something is wrong. The winch will allow you to blissfully crank without feeling the resistance until something makes a very expensive sound to alert you. 

The furler line is hard to grip due to small diameter. I have arthritis, and have found that rope decenders used for rock climbing are terrific for easily pulling in a large genoa even in high winds, but still allowing you to feel what is going on if there is a snag. 

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/With-Handle/Petzl-Ascension-Ascender-RIGHT-only 

I have a pair of these (left and right handed) that I originally bought for use in climbing my mast. I now always have them handy when sailing. It's astonishing how much more hauling power you have on a line when there is a padded handle! 

Bill Bina 



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