{Stus-List} Stanchion wiggle

cscheaffer at comcast.net cscheaffer at comcast.net
Mon Mar 22 11:35:36 EDT 2010



Our stanchions wiggle too.  Our stanchions have a 1/4 20 screw that goes through the toe rail and base and threads through one wall of the stanchion tube.  The tubes have been redrilled by a PO so there is another hole.  The bolts are tight but there is some play between the tube and base.  I was thinking I might fill the gap in the base with something. 



Idea: 

Remove the stanchions. 

Wax the SS stanchion tubes so epoxy doesn't stick 

Roughen the bases with sand paper so epoxy will adhere. 

Tape off the bases to ease cleanup 

Reinstall stanchions in bases 

Mix epoxy and using a syringe, fill the gap, clean off excess, remove tape 



Should result in tighter fit, but still removable??? 



Chuck  




----- Original Message ----- 
From: bushmark4 at aol.com 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:06:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Stanchions 

The thread about moving stanchions reminded me of a question I have wanted to pose for some time; IS there a way to tighten or firm up stanchions in general?   I have all of the screws as tight as possible, but the stanchions all seem to have some wiggle in them and I would prefer that they had a more solid feel; I have a 29 II, but I think the stanchions are somewhat universal, given that there are only two or three bases?   Thanks. 



Richard 
1985 29 II 





Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255 


-----Original Message----- 
From: Rick Brass <rickbrass at earthlink.net> 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sun, Mar 21, 2010 10:17 pm 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 




Dave; 

If Bob elects not to buy your stanchion bases, I’d be interested. I can’t quite understand whether I need “B” type (for 38 mk1) or “C” (best option for replacing the older four hole bases), but I’ll probably call South Shore to figure that out tomorrow. This is one of my projects for the summer, but getting the materials together now may not be such a bad idea. 

Rick Brass 
Imzadi 
C&C 38 mk1 


From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [ mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of dryan at buckeye-express.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:34 PM 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 


Bob; 
I bought the South Shore toerail stanchion bases several years ago and never put them on. I have some left, along with all new stanchions including 2 gates. 
I"ll sell them for what I have in them if you are going to put them on the rail. 
Other things took priority over moving the stanchions! 
dave ryan 
C&C 33-1 
1975 

--- bobmor99 at gmail.com wrote: 

From: Bob Moriarty < bobmor99 at gmail.com > 
To: cnc-list < cnc-list at cnc-list.com > 
Subject: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:09:35 -0400 

I've been thinking of moving the stanchions out to the rail on my 33-1. I know that South Shore Yachts has stanchion bases that attach to the rail and would most likely do the trick. But, I was thinking about another (cheaper) approach and would like to run it by the l ist. 

My stainless steel stanchions are 1" OD and 7/8" ID. I have a tap and die set that goes up to 1/2" (13TPI). So, I was thinking of buying some six inch lengths of 1/2" stainless steel threaded rod and some 7/8" round aluminum, both from Speedy Metals. 

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8390-threaded-rod.aspx 
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2443-8368-78-rd-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx 

I would expand some existing toerail holes to accommodate the 1/2" stainless threaded rod. (I suppose I could even tap that hole for 13 TPI). Below, I'd reuse the old stanchion bases' backing plates and 1/2" 13 TPI locking nuts. Above, I'd tap a 9" length of the 7/8" aluminum to screw onto the 1/2 " stainless rod.  Lastly, I'd slide the stanchions over the 7/8" aluminum. I don't think there would be any need for set screws, the lifelines will hold things in place vertically. 

I know I'd be mixing metals here, but I don't see any corrosion around the original aluminum toerail and the thru-bolts. 

I also see where there might be a bit of a non-vertical "outward angle" aesthetic problem with the stanchions if they are oriented perpendicular to the toerail. Perhaps I could compensate for that with careful drilling for the S/S rod and the removal of a bit of the radiused top edge of the toerail at the new stanchion location. 

C&C's slotted toerail has always attracted me, both structurally and aestheically. Do folks think that 1/2" S/S rod could "carry the load" in a stanchion/lifeline application? 

Looking forward to any comments, criticisms, or suggestions from this excellent list. 

Bob Moriarty 
Ox '76 33-1 
Jax, FL 



_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List at cnc-list.com 
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List at cnc-list.com 

Richard 
1985 29 II 





Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255 


-----Original Message----- 
From: Rick Brass <rickbrass at earthlink.net> 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sun, Mar 21, 2010 10:17 pm 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 




Dave; 

If Bob elects not to buy your stanchion bases, I’d be interested. I can’t quite understand whether I need “B” type (for 38 mk1) or “C” (best option for replacing the older four hole bases), but I’ll probably call South Shore to figure that out tomorrow. This is one of my projects for the summer, but getting the materials together now may not be such a bad idea. 

Rick Brass 
Imzadi 
C&C 38 mk1 


From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [ mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of dryan at buckeye-express.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:34 PM 
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 


Bob; 
I bought the South Shore toerail stanchion bases several years ago and never put them on. I have some left, along with all new stanchions including 2 gates. 
I"ll sell them for what I have in them if you are going to put them on the rail. 
Other things took priority over moving the stanchions! 
dave ryan 
C&C 33-1 
1975 

--- bobmor99 at gmail.com wrote: 

From: Bob Moriarty < bobmor99 at gmail.com > 
To: cnc-list < cnc-list at cnc-list.com > 
Subject: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1 
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:09:35 -0400 

I've been thinking of moving the stanchions out to the rail on my 33-1. I know that South Shore Yachts has stanchion bases that attach to the rail and would most likely do the trick. But, I was thinking about another (cheaper) approach and would like to run it by the l ist. 

My stainless steel stanchions are 1" OD and 7/8" ID. I have a tap and die set that goes up to 1/2" (13TPI). So, I was thinking of buying some six inch lengths of 1/2" stainless steel threaded rod and some 7/8" round aluminum, both from Speedy Metals. 

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8390-threaded-rod.aspx 
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2443-8368-78-rd-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx 

I would expand some existing toerail holes to accommodate the 1/2" stainless threaded rod. (I suppose I could even tap that hole for 13 TPI). Below, I'd reuse the old stanchion bases' backing plates and 1/2" 13 TPI locking nuts. Above, I'd tap a 9" length of the 7/8" aluminum to screw onto the 1/2 " stainless rod.  Lastly, I'd slide the stanchions over the 7/8" aluminum. I don't think there would be any need for set screws, the lifelines will hold things in place vertically. 

I know I'd be mixing metals here, but I don't see any corrosion around the original aluminum toerail and the thru-bolts. 

I also see where there might be a bit of a non-vertical "outward angle" aesthetic problem with the stanchions if they are oriented perpendicular to the toerail. Perhaps I could compensate for that with careful drilling for the S/S rod and the removal of a bit of the radiused top edge of the toerail at the new stanchion location. 

C&C's slotted toerail has always attracted me, both structurally and aestheically. Do folks think that 1/2" S/S rod could "carry the load" in a stanchion/lifeline application? 

Looking forward to any comments, criticisms, or suggestions from this excellent list. 

Bob Moriarty 
Ox '76 33-1 
Jax, FL 



_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List at cnc-list.com 
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List at cnc-list.com 
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List at cnc-list.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20100322/7f2d6ec4/attachment.html>


More information about the CnC-List mailing list