{Stus-List} Stanchion wiggle

Dennis C. captbuy at yahoo.com
Tue Mar 23 14:30:39 EDT 2010


http://www.mcmaster.com/#shims-and-shim-stock/=6cft55




________________________________
From: Russ & Melody <russmel at telus.net>
To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, March 23, 2010 2:02:47 PM
Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Stanchion wiggle


Put a cork in it guys!

I mean, put a cork or rubber stopper (waxed) in the bottom of the stanchion to stop the epox from coming up inside.

         Cheers, Russ
         35 mk-1


At 08:39 AM 3/22/2010, you wrote:


Good point!  
>
>Haven't thought of a good solution for that.
> 
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Coleman" <coltrek at verizon.net>
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 12:05:58 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Stanchion wiggle
>
>Won’t the epoxy run down and fill up inside?
> 
>Bill Coleman
>C&C 39
> 
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cscheaffer at comcast.net
>Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 11:36 AM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: {Stus-List} Stanchion wiggle
> 
>
>Our stanchions wiggle too.  Our stanchions have a 1/4 20 screw that goes through the toe rail and base and threads through one wall of the stanchion tube.  The tubes have been redrilled by a PO so there is another hole.  The bolts are tight but there is some play between the tube and base.  I was thinking I might fill the gap in the base with something.
>
> 
>
>Idea:
>
>Remove the stanchions.
>
>Wax the SS stanchion tubes so epoxy doesn't stick
>
>Roughen the bases with sand paper so epoxy will adhere.
>
>Tape off the bases to ease cleanup
>
>Reinstall stanchions in bases
>
>Mix epoxy and using a syringe, fill the gap, clean off excess, remove tape
>
> 
>
>Should result in tighter fit, but still removable???
>
> 
>
>Chuck 
>
> 
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: bushmark4 at aol.com
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:06:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Stanchions
>
>The thread about moving stanchions reminded me of a question I have wanted to pose for some time; IS there a way to tighten or firm up stanchions in general?   I have all of the screws as tight as possible, but the stanchions all seem to have some wiggle in them and I would prefer that they had a more solid feel; I have a 29 II, but I think the stanchions are somewhat universal, given that there are only two or three bases?   Thanks.
>Richard
>1985 29 II
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
>235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
>Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
>502-584-7255
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rick Brass <rickbrass at earthlink.net>
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Sent: Sun, Mar 21, 2010 10:17 pm
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1
>Dave;
> 
>If Bob elects not to buy your stanchion bases, I’d be interested. I can’t quite understand whether I need “B” type (for 38 mk1) or “C” (best option for replacing the older four hole bases), but I’ll probably call South Shore to figure that out tomorrow. This is one of my projects for the summer, but getting the materials together now may not be such a bad idea.
> 
>Rick Brass
>Imzadi
>C&C 38 mk1
> 
>From: cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-bounces at cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dryan at buckeye-express.com
>Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:34 PM
>To: cnc-list at cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1
> 
>Bob;
>I bought the South Shore toerail stanchion bases several years ago and never put them on. I have some left, along with all new stanchions including 2 gates.
>I"ll sell them for what I have in them if you are going to put them on the rail.
>Other things took priority over moving the stanchions!
>dave ryan
>C&C 33-1
>1975
>
>--- bobmor99 at gmail.com wrote:
>
>From: Bob Moriarty <bobmor99 at gmail.com>
>To: cnc-list <cnc-list at cnc-list.com>
>Subject: {Stus-List} Moving Stanchions to the Rail 33-1
>Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:09:35 -0400
>
>I've been thinking of moving the stanchions out to the rail on my 33-1. I know that South Shore Yachts has stanchion bases that attach to the rail and would most likely do the trick. But, I was thinking about another (cheaper) approach and would like to run it by the l ist.
>
>My stainless steel stanchions are 1" OD and 7/8" ID. I have a tap and die set that goes up to 1/2" (13TPI). So, I was thinking of buying some six inch lengths of 1/2" stainless steel threaded rod and some 7/8" round aluminum, both from Speedy Metals.
>
>http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8390-threaded-rod.aspx
>http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2443-8368-78-rd-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx
>
>I would expand some existing toerail holes to accommodate the 1/2" stainless threaded rod. (I suppose I could even tap that hole for 13 TPI). Below, I'd reuse the old stanchion bases' backing plates and 1/2" 13 TPI locking nuts. Above, I'd tap a 9" length of the 7/8" aluminum to screw onto the 1/2 " stainless rod.  Lastly, I'd slide the stanchions over the 7/8" aluminum. I don't think there would be any need for set screws, the lifelines will hold things in place vertically.
>
>I know I'd be mixing metals here, but I don't see any corrosion around the original aluminum toerail and the thru-bolts.
>
>I also see where there might be a bit of a non-vertical "outward angle" aesthetic problem with the stanchions if they are oriented perpendicular to the toerail. Perhaps I could compensate for that with careful drilling for the S/S rod and the removal of a bit of the radiused top edge of the toerail at the new stanchion location.
>
>C&C's slotted toerail has always attracted me, both structurally and aestheically. Do folks think that 1/2" S/S rod could "carry the load" in a stanchion/lifeline application?
>
>Looking forward to any comments, criticisms, or suggestions from this excellent list.
>
>Bob Moriarty
>Ox '76 33-1
>Jax, FL
>
>
>
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