KM
keith morgenstern
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 1:51 AM
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
CS
CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 2:21 AM
Gotta do the same project.
I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
I look forward to the replies.
Chuck S
On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Gotta do the same project.
I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
I look forward to the replies.
Chuck S
> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
>
> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>
> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the length is 4", but what is the OD??
>
> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
> Q1: is this a real thing?
> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> -Keith M
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
RA
Riley Anderson
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 2:47 AM
Keith,
You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
Cheers,
Riley
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Gotta do the same project.
I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
I look forward to the replies.
Chuck S
On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Keith,
You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
Cheers,
Riley
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Gotta do the same project.
>
> I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
> between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>
> I look forward to the replies.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
>
> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>
> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>
> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
> shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
> the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
> heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
> has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
> once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
> good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
> transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
> than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
> Q1: is this a real thing?
> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> -Keith M
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
NP
Nathan Post
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 4:19 AM
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had
to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was
machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before
tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the
spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made.
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 19:49 Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Keith,
You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
Cheers,
Riley
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Gotta do the same project.
I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
I look forward to the replies.
Chuck S
On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between
the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to
remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem
(i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so
that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really
hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer
a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only
thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws,
rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had
to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was
machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before
tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the
spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made.
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 19:49 Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Keith,
>
> You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
> designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
> install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
> You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
> against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
> old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
> 400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
> take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
> would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
> you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
> larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Riley
>
> On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gotta do the same project.
>>
>> I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
>> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
>> between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
>> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>>
>> I look forward to the replies.
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>>
>> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
>>
>> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>>
>> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
>> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
>> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>>
>> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between
>> the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to
>> remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem
>> (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so
>> that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really
>> hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer
>> a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only
>> thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws,
>> rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
>> Q1: is this a real thing?
>> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>>
>> Thanks a bunch!!
>>
>> -Keith M
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
JR
John Read
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 1:58 PM
Had my cutless bearing replaced by the yard last year as part of job to
rebuild Martec prop. Bearing at cost plus 1 hour labor. Perfect fit they
had the tools and experience. Worth every cent. Much less vibration.
John Read
Legacy III, 1982 34, Noank CT
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Gotta do the same project.
I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
I look forward to the replies.
Chuck S
On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
length is 4", but what is the OD??
Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
Q1: is this a real thing?
Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
Thanks a bunch!!
-Keith M
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Had my cutless bearing replaced by the yard last year as part of job to
rebuild Martec prop. Bearing at cost plus 1 hour labor. Perfect fit they
had the tools and experience. Worth every cent. Much less vibration.
John Read
Legacy III, 1982 34, Noank CT
On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Gotta do the same project.
>
> I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
> between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>
> I look forward to the replies.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
>
> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>
> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>
> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
> shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
> the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
> heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
> has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
> once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
> good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
> transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
> than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
> Q1: is this a real thing?
> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> -Keith M
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
P
primeinterest@gmail.com
Sun, Feb 4, 2024 2:14 PM
I had a similar problem trying to remove the coupling on my LF38 and I even had the benefit of good access to the coupling since it is a v-drive. Fluids, heat, gear puller were not successful. After 2 days of work I decided to cut if off which took only 20 minutes. I already had a new prop shaft and ordered a new coupling too – as Nathan suggested I recommend a split coupling ( I ordered one made by R&D ) – so wasn’t trying to save it in any case.
I would suggest even if you are successful in getting it off that you purchase a new coupling if there any corrosion on the inside surface. A standard coupling is not hugely expensive.
The interference fitting is pretty impressive – with the new shaft and new split coupling sliding it on by hand was easy but I had to use the gear puller to ease if off again. Similarly the face of the coupling vacuumed itself to the transmission flange while aligning the shaft and had to knock if off with a rubber hammer.
Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest LF38 – 1982
Toronto, Canada
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2024 11:19 PM
To: Stus-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: keith morgenstern mrgnstrn@hotmail.com; CHARLES SCHEAFFER cscheaffer@comcast.net; Riley Anderson svfreighttrain@gmail.com; Nathan Post nathan8922@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made.
I had a similar problem trying to remove the coupling on my LF38 and I even had the benefit of good access to the coupling since it is a v-drive. Fluids, heat, gear puller were not successful. After 2 days of work I decided to cut if off which took only 20 minutes. I already had a new prop shaft and ordered a new coupling too – as Nathan suggested I recommend a split coupling ( I ordered one made by R&D ) – so wasn’t trying to save it in any case.
I would suggest even if you are successful in getting it off that you purchase a new coupling if there any corrosion on the inside surface. A standard coupling is not hugely expensive.
The interference fitting is pretty impressive – with the new shaft and new split coupling sliding it on by hand was easy but I had to use the gear puller to ease if off again. Similarly the face of the coupling vacuumed itself to the transmission flange while aligning the shaft and had to knock if off with a rubber hammer.
Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest LF38 – 1982
Toronto, Canada
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2024 11:19 PM
To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: keith morgenstern <mrgnstrn@hotmail.com>; CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaffer@comcast.net>; Riley Anderson <svfreighttrain@gmail.com>; Nathan Post <nathan8922@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made.
